Walking Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem: Everything You Need to Know
Spiritually, Via Dolorosa definitely belongs among the top attractions in Jerusalem, despite the fierce competition, and it should be on your itinerary. So here's everything you need to know about walking Via Dolorosa and the stops along the route.
Jerusalem is an overwhelming city, not only architecturally but also historically.
There are also so many religiously important places that it is a success if you'll see at least the most significant fraction of them.
Even though we are not religious people, we tried to walk the city's grounds with an open mind and what more, visiting Jerusalem was for us a perfect opportunity to learn more about historical figures, events that took place there.
And we must say it was very enriching in many ways.
One of the activities we could not miss was walking Via Dolorosa, also known as the Way of the Cross or Way of Suffering.
Via Dolorosa is a route that Jesus took more than two thousand years ago while wearing a crown of thorns and carrying a heavy cross over his shoulder.
His final stop on this journey was the place of crucifixion today known as the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Nowadays, the busy streets do not easily give away this gloomy past.
As we are travel bloggers, we do not get down here to a discussion whether this event really happened, and if it did, whether Jesus walked the very same paths as thousands of visitors to Jerusalem follow nowadays.
For us, walking Via Dolorosa was a peaceful way to contemplate.
We looked for metal signs marking each of fourteen significant stations, and we read in a guidebook why each station was noteworthy and tried to understand this notoriously known historical event better.
As we visited Israel right after borders re-opened, Via Dolorosa and, in general, the historical center was not as busy as it was a few years back.
Still, we could sense the magical atmosphere and hope you'll see the route the same way as we did.
Walking Via Dolorosa can be easily included in your Israel itinerary and should not be missed.
That's why we've put together everything you need to know about Via Dolorosa, including the most important stations, what to wear, and overall, what to expect.
Things to Know About Via Dolorosa
The Way of Suffering in Jerusalem is not one street.
It is an approximately 600 meters long route consisting of several points of interest based on many historical sources scattered on different streets that will unmistakably take you to Mount of Calvary, the final resting place (at least for some time) of Jesus.
As you can see, Via Dolorosa is not long, so this cobblestone route is doable to anyone, even for kids or the elderly.
How Long Does It Take to Walk Via Dolorosa?
Well, it really depends on your pace, how crowded the street is (start early in the morning to avoid crowds), and how thoroughly you'll take the exploration and learning part.
In general, we would recommend reserving about forty to sixty minutes for the route itself (for the nine stations) and at least an additional hour for the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where you'll find another five stations.
Totally, there's fourteen stations on Via Dolorosa.
Entrance Fee
There is no entrance fee to Via Dolorosa as it's just a regular street in the Old City.
Therefore, it's an excellent place to see if you're visiting Israel on a budget.
Opening Hours
Once again, Via Dolorosa is a route with no opening hours, and you can visit it daily all year round.
History of Via Dolorosa
Honestly, we do not want to go deep into Via Dolorosa's history here for many reasons. First of all, you're reading a travel guide, and we believe this is the kind of information you came for here.
Secondly, the history of this place is really not that straightforward, and we'll gladly pass this topic to someone who's better educated in the case of religion than we are.
Still, we feel this way deserves at least a few words.
As we've already mentioned, Via Dolorosa follows Jesus' last walk before the crucifixion.
He had the Last Supper with his followers (you can visit the hall where Last Supper took place as well in Jerusalem), then he was captured by Romans and later on sentenced to death.
First reports of pilgrims following the same route as Jesus date back to the 8th century, but at that time, it was all about the route; there were not 14 meaningful stops like nowadays.
The route led believers from Mount of Olives via Getsemani, Lion's Gate, to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
The route then changed many times, especially when in the Middle Ages, the Roman Catholics split into two fractions, and each fraction decided to follow their own holy Way of Suffering.
In the 14th century, Franciscans set a new order, and the official way led in the opposite direction from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to the House of Pilate, and this route was followed for about two centuries.
Later, in the 16th century, the way was reversed, so it chronologically followed Gospels in the Bible and ended where Jesus' life most likely ended.
During the centuries, there were also many discussions about the exact stations' locations that were often rectified based on archaeological findings, and the final result is Via Dolorosa we know today.
Because of so many changes in the directions, remodeling the stations and choosing those most significant ones, and many other influences, we think it is not that important to find the truth whether Jesus and the procession had really followed the exact same route.
In our opinion, the most important is the idea and the mythological and educational benefits that following Via Dolorosa brings.
It is a place where you can contemplate, but you can also visit it as an average traveler and admire the narrow streets, architecture, and the route itself that will take you to one of the most significant structures in Israel.
Via Dolorosa: 14 Station of the Cross
To be honest, we haven't planned our Jerusalem itinerary very thoroughly, so after we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, we found out that we still had a few moments before it got dark.
So we decided to spend time by walking Via Dolorosa.
Yes, we walked it in the reverse order, but it was ok for us. If it is more important to you to follow the exact route, start at the Muslim Quarter, near Lion's Gate.
We will walk you through the route in the most traditional order as well.
Later on, we even noticed that we unintentionally visited a few places along the way before but did not pay attention to it.
The small metal signs are quite inconspicuous, especially if you do not know what you are looking for.
Station 1
The first stop on Via Dolorosa marks the place of Jesus’ condemnation by Pontius Pilate that supposedly happened in Madrasa al-Omariya, which is today a functional Muslim school.
This site is about 300 meters from Lion's Gate.
If you want to go inside, it might be a bit tricky because the site is not open all the time to visitors, but your best bet is to come between 3 PM and 5 PM.
On Fridays, sites in Israel usually close one hour earlier.
Station 2
The second station can be found right next to the Franciscan Monastery of the Flagellation, where Jesus was beaten by Roman soldiers, and only a few steps away stands the Church of the Condemnation.
This area is significant because it was here where Jesus was handed the cross to carry.
Station 3
A small chapel on Al-Wad street marks another important station, where Jesus fell under the weight of the cross for the first time.
Station 4
Carry on to the Armenian Church of Our Lady of the Spasm. This is the place where Jesus supposedly met with his mother, Mary, who watched her sons suffering in the crowds.
Station 5
Now Via Dolorosa will take you westwards.
The street would have taken you to the Western Wall if you walked to the south, but we'll leave this traditional landmark for another blog post.
Right on the crossroad is the fifth station, where, according to the Bible, Romans commanded the Simon of Cyrene to help Jesus carry his cross.
Station 6
In the same street, only a few meters away, you'll find the sixth station marked by a wooden door.
This is where St. Veronica wiped Jesus' face with a cloth. According to a legend, his image remained imprinted on the cloth.
Station 7
Walk towards busy street Souq Khan al-Zeit, where Jesus fell under the weight of his cross for the second time.
Station 8
Walk uphill towards Aqabat al-Khanqah street, and soon you'll reach the eighth station that is marked by a stone and a Latin cross.
This is a place where Jesus consolidated women, and according to the Gospel of Luke, he told them: "Daughters of Jerusalem, do not weep for me, but weep for yourselves and for your children."
Station 9
Now, you must retrace your steps a bit and return to Souq Khan al-Zeit and turn right. Climb up the stairs to the Coptic Church.
The remains of a column mark a place where Jesus fell for the third time.
By this time, you've almost made it to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where you'll find the last five stops.
Station 10
Being inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre can be quite overwhelming, and it is hard not to go directly to the holy grave.
But if you want to follow Via Dolorosa step by step, station by station, wait a moment. The tenth station depicts a place where Jesus was stripped of his garments.
Station 11
Upstairs, in the Latin Calvary, you can see a picture where Jesus was nailed to the cross.
Station 12
Greek Orthodox Calvary is the site where Jesus died on the cross.
Station 13
Statue of Our Lady of Sorrows is significant as this is where Jesus was taken down - this is also where you'll find many people praying.
It should go without saying that the whole site is super-religious, and all visitors should walk around quietly and act respectfully.
The alternative of the thirteenth station, is the Stone of Anointing that is right in front of the main entrance to the church.
Station 14
The last stop on Via Dolorosa is the tomb itself, which is a structure within the church you simply cannot miss.
It is possible to go inside the tomb, and we recommend you to wait a bit in a queue, it is really worth it.
Is Via Dolorosa Safe to Visit?
Via Dolorosa is generally a safe place to visit in Jerusalem. However, it gets very crowded at peak times, so watch out for pickpockets.
Here you will find more tips on staying safe in Israel.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
What to Wear
The first nine stations of Via Dolorosa are outside (although you can go and explore a few monasteries along the way), so you can wear anything comfortable.
On the other hand, Jerusalem is one of the holiest cities in the world.
Therefore, it is expected to wear modest clothes, especially if you plan on visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as the final stop on Via Dolorosa, or Dome of the Rock, which is another must-see attraction.
We recommend wearing comfortable closed shoes, jeans or pants, a t-shirt (not a sleeveless one), and a mirrorless camera.
It is possible to take photos everywhere, even inside of the church.
Bring plenty of water as walking around Jerusalem can be pretty tiring, especially in the summer months.
If you want to travel more sustainably and save money (bottled water in the country is quite expensive), invest in a reusable water bottle.
There are plenty of places around Jerusalem to fill it up.
Where to Stay in Jerusalem
Jerusalem, the same as the rest of Israel, is pretty expensive when it comes to accommodation.
It often does not matter where the hotel is located, so we believe it is worth it to stay somewhere close to the historical center.
Holidays and important religious dates can be booked out in advance, so make sure to make your reservation well in advance.
Here's our choice of the best hotels in Jerusalem.
Budget | De Cardo Hotel - This is where we stayed for four nights in Jerusalem. This hotel is very conveniently located, rooms were clean, nicely designed, and the staff was always very friendly.
Mid-range | Herbert Samuel Hotel Jerusalem - This exceptional hotel is located only a few hundred meters away from the old city. Except for the comfortable rooms, guests can also enjoy relaxing in the wellness center.
Luxury | Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem - If you want to experience something exceptional and your budget does not have a low daily limit, stay in this hotel. The location and overall architecture are simply wonderful.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
