San Agustin Travel Guide: Best Things to Do
San Agustin is an off the beaten path destination in Colombia that features high waterfalls, a colonial town, an archaeological UNESCO site, indigenous history, and ancient statues hidden and scattered in the hills near river Magdalena. Read our San Agustin travel guide, including tips on the best things to do, how to get around, tips on jeep and horseback riding tours, or where to stay.
The truth is that you will find many small colonial towns, just like San Agustin in Colombia. Towns, where life goes slowly, streets are lined with cute and colorful houses, and where the main plaza is the place where both travelers and locals meet.
Even the wonderful landscape that surrounds the town can be found anywhere else.
So what sets San Agustin apart, and why should you visit it? It is the large number of best things to do a traveler can see in only a few days.
It is also the combination of archaeological sites, beautiful nature, and the interesting way to explore them, which creates the right mix.
Admittedly, we spent in San Agustin a bit over a week, because Martin hurt his back, but at least we had enough time to explore the town slowly and really appreciate the atmosphere and must-visit sites.
The exceptionality of the place was confirmed officially in 1995 when San Agustin archaeological park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
San Agustin lies in the southern part of Colombia, in the Huila department, which is often overlooked by international travelers. But according to us, the region has a lot to offer.
You'll find here out of this world Tatacoa Desert, and most importantly, you can include San Agustin in your Colombia travel itinerary, in case you plan on continuing down south and cross borders to Ecuador.
Plus, there is a city of Popayan on the way to Ecuador, though that's already a different department.
Colombia has many archaeological sites scattered around the country, but if you did not make it to probably the most famous one (and the most expensive) - Lost City (Ciudad Perdida), you should visit at least San Agustin.
Here, you can find the largest collection of religious monuments in Latin America and also the world's largest necropolis.
This travel guide includes tips on how to explore the best things to do in San Agustin, tips on the must-visit places, and we also share practical information on how to get or where to find the best hotel.
HOW TO VISIT BEST PLACES IN SAN AGUSTIN
Before visiting San Agustin, it is good to know that most of the must-see places are outside the town's limits.
But no worries, all of them are easily accessible. The most famous Archaeological Park can be visited in one afternoon by bus.
Other places that are a bit further away are usually visited on a jeep tour or horseback riding tour.
We were actually looking forward to visiting San Agustin because we could not wait to see this part of Colombia from a horseback saddle. After all, we usually do not participate in such activities.
How long should you stay in San Agustin? The usual length of stay is three nights and two full days.
This way, travelers can visit Archaeological Park and do the horseback riding tour one day, and the whole next day can be dedicated to the jeep while that will show you around.
By the way, this is the most common combination, and every hotel or touts in town will offer you this two-day tour combo.
Of course, you can hire a private guide or decide to see only a few places independently, but to get the full experience and see as much as possible, we can only recommend you to go with the flow this time.
In case you have only one day and want to see all the top sites, consider booking this one-day San Agustin tour.
We stayed in a friendly hostel and let them arrange our program.
We didn't haggle about the price as it seemed reasonable, and we paid 60 000 COP each for the horseback riding tour (from 8 AM to 1 PM) and the next day, we paid 50 000 COP each for a jeep tour (from 9 AM to 6 PM).
If you are part of a larger group, you might try to negotiate.
There was no English speaking guide available, but luckily in both groups we were part of, a member translated for us (but the guide is here more to get you from one place to another than to explain things).
We decided to visit Archaeological Park independently. The site is closed every Tuesday, so you can always do the jeep tour first in case you arrive on this day.
To visit most of the sites in San Agustin, including the Archaeological Park, you must purchase a 'passport' for 50 000 COP, and it is valid for two consecutive days.
Some sites (probably on private land) require an additional entrance fee, but it is still worth it to purchase the passport - we bought it in the Archaeological Park.
WHAT TO DO IN SAN AGUSTIN
The laidback atmosphere, culture, history, and picturesque settings make San Agustin worth exploring.
Below, we share all the places we visited in the exact order. As we've already mentioned, we independently visited the Archaeological Park, the same as the city itself.
Then we traveled to the rest of the sites as a part of tours that are in this town very reasonably priced.
We've made a list of things you definitely shouldn't miss in San Agustin.
SAN AGUSTIN TOWN
The truth is that the majority of travelers head directly outside the town to see all the archaeological wonders.
Still, we think you should dedicate at least an hour to exploring San Agustin itself. It is probably not that picturesque town such as Barichara or Villa de Leyva, but we really liked walking the streets.
As we traveled long term, despite being in the town longer than planned because of Martin's temporary health issues, we enjoyed our time here.
You should not miss the main plaza Parque Simon Bolivar featuring Iglesia de San Agustin and then walk aimlessly to a few streets surrounding the square.
You might be surprised by how many cute houses with colorful doors are there.
And unlike colorful colonial towns such as Jardin or Guatape, San Agustin's most prevalent colors are white and green.
SAN AGUSTIN ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK
San Agustin Archaeological Park is the top attraction and, according to us, one of the reasons to put this destination on your itinerary.
The site is located near the town. Hop on a colectivo from San Agustin - the bus stops in front of El Fogon restaurant, and the one-way ticket costs 1 200 COP. The ride takes less than 10 minutes, and the bus will stop right at the gate of the park, where you can buy the entrance passport.
The site is vast, so reserve 3 to 4 hours to explore all sections properly.
It is very little known about statues and tombs found around San Agustin.
The first reason we know such a little about statues and carvings is that no writings that could reveal the mystery of their origin have been yet discovered.
The other reason is more prosaic.
After tombs and statues were discovered, many tomb raiders and thieves destroyed the site and historical evidence, which could help us understand the story behind creating the statues even better.
There are a small museum and jungle walk with statues Bosque de las Estatuas nearby in the park.
You can then walk through different sections - Mesita A and C to Fuente Ceremonial de Lavapatas and then climb uphill to Alto de Lavapatas, a viewpoint with other statues, then return back via Mesita B.
As we've mentioned above, you can expect a nice walk in the park, so wear comfortable shoes, a daypack, reusable water bottle, and rain poncho or travel umbrella, as it can rain anytime here in San Agustin.
HORSEBACK RIDING
Thanks to the picturesque surroundings, San Agustin is a perfect place for horseback riding.
And that you've never tried this activity before? Nor did we.
It was the first time for us, and we loved it, although, for the whole time, I was not pretty sure who in our team is the boss, if it's my horse or me.
The whole of our training consisted of jumping on the horse, and then our guide told us that we must pull reins to the left or right depending on where we want to turn and draw in the reins when we want to stop.
After this approximately one minute long explanation (when probably 30 seconds we tried to remember left and right in Spanish), we set off.
Derecha means right, izquierda means left. It's simple as that.
However, it's much harder to recall those magic words in a full panic mode once the horse starts moving. Or even worse, galloping.
The scenery was fantastic, and now we finally understand the phrase that the world looks better from the back of a horse.
Even though horseback riding could easily be a must-do activity on its own, on the way, we stopped at three different sites - El Purutal La Pelota, La Chaquira, and El Tablon.
These sites were wonderful, and we appreciated breaks during for us challenging ride.
Our Tip: In case you prefer to be active, but horseback riding is not your thing, consider this well-rated San Agustin biking tour.
EL PURUTAL Y LA PELOTA
El Purutal y La Pelota is a small park where you can find statues with colorful patterns that are extraordinary. All other statues in the San Agustin area are only gray.
We had to pay an additional 4 000 COP for the ticket here as this site is not included in the passport.
LA CHAQUIRA
La Chaquira is a beautiful viewpoint over the river Magdalena.
The path leading to the viewpoint is lined with carved boulders, and we could see there other remnants of the past culture living in the area many centuries ago.
Mysterious faces decorate the rocks, but now we can only guess their meaning.
As Colombia is a coffee country, we had a cup of coffee in a stall close to the trailhead to the viewpoint.
EL TABLON
El Tablon was the last stop on our horseback riding tour.
It's a tiny site with only five statues and a small museum (we didn't go inside). Statues are in good condition but not somehow impressive, at least compared to other places we visited.
In case you are short on time and consider visiting this site, you might give it a miss.
JEEP TOUR
The next day we joined a jeep tour as we wanted to see the top attractions that are a bit further away from San Agustin.
The jeep tour was well-organized, and everything was on time; the only downside was that we were in Spanish speaking group where only one lady spoke a little English, so we felt a bit left out.
In the afternoon there was a stop for lunch, meals in the restaurant cost about 15 000 COP, but it is not compulsory to eat in this particular restaurant, feel free to bring your own food.
During the tour, we had seven stops - Salto Mortino, Alto de Las Piedras, Salto Bordones, Alto de Los Idolos, a sugar cane factory, a museum in Obando and Estrecho del Magdalena. Be prepared for a long day on bumpy roads.
SALTO MORTINO
Salto Mortino is an impressive waterfall only 15 minutes drive from San Agustin.
Apart from the waterfall, we could see coffee plantations and trees of one of Colombia's native fruits, lulo.
Overall, the stop is quite short because it is possible to admire this waterfall from two viewpoints, and there are no other trails available.
We had to pay here to get to the viewing platform. It seems that locals pay 2 000 COP, gringos 3 000 COP.
ALTO DE LAS PIEDRAS
Alto de Las Piedras is another archaeological site featuring statues of people, animals, and there are also several tombs.
It is believed that this place was an ancient ceremonial center of the area.
SALTO BORDONES
Colombia's tallest uninterrupted waterfall falls freely from a high of more than 400 meters.
There is a viewpoint overlooking the waterfall from above, or you can walk down the narrow path to get a little bit better views from a different perspective.
ALTO DE LOS IDOLOS
When arriving at Alto de Los Idolos, we started to have a feeling that we already saw more statues than we can take in.
The archaeological part was interesting, but the lack of information and also the repetitive symbols made us feel tired.
That's why what we liked the most about this site was the vast green area where we could walk freely, and it was refreshing.
There are two notable things: the highest statue and statue depicting a crocodile, although crocodiles did not live in this area, so it is a question why it was carved here in the rock.
SUGAR CANE FACTORY
Even before we entered the building, we could smell the sugar in the air.
The visit to a factory where workers make from raw sugar cane panela (block of natural sugar) was hot and sticky, but very interesting to see.
Colombians love sweets, so no surprise that workers looked very busy.
We liked this stop as it was different from other sites on our itinerary, and overall, these places are very photogenic.
MUSEUM IN OBANDO
Apart from the actual museum showing ceramic objects found in tombs and information boards explaining the history of excavations, in Obando, there are ancient tombs we could actually enter and have a look at what is underground.
Pretty impressive.
We had to pay an additional entrance fee here, 3 000 COP.
ESTRECHO DEL MAGDALENA
The last stop on tour was Magdalena Strait.
Magdalena River is Colombia's most important and largest waterway, but here, it is only about two meters wide as it flows through the narrow strait.
We had to walk down to the best viewpoint but did not mind because, by that time, we started to be tired from the all-day bumpy drive.
WHERE TO STAY IN SAN AGUSTIN
San Agustin, although it is not on every traveler map, offers a wide selection of hotels.
The town's center is pleasant, but do not be worried about staying a bit further away, to enjoy the views of the surrounding hills.
We've handpicked the best three hotels in San Agustin for every type of traveler. Feel free to get inspired.
Budget | Hotel La Gaitana - Although we did find just little reviews about budget Hotel La Gaitana, we were happy that we gave it a try. A huge family house with several rooms and a very nice patio on the top where guests can just hang out was a perfect place to stay. Take the option with breakfast; it's worth it. The family who runs the hotel is really friendly and helpful.
Mid-range | Masaya San Agustin - Superb views, location out of the town, great for people looking to meet other travelers. Cheap dormitories are available.
Luxury | Akawanka Lodge - Spacious rooms, excellent and helpful staff, beautiful surroundings. The location is quiet, although a bit further from the town center. On the other hand, tours can pick you up here. This is one of the best hotels in San Agustin.
WHERE TO EAT IN SAN AGUSTIN
We found two excellent restaurants in San Agustin. It is no secret we did not get used to Colombian cuisine, but we really enjoyed eating in San Agustin.
What was the most important, both restaurants offered a cheap menu del dia alias the menu of the day, for 10 000 COP.
Restaurant El Tomate is the vegetarian option, usually, open until 2 PM or until the food runs out, and it's a real gem. It is trendy among gringos, so make sure to arrive early.
The other is Fonte Cafe Restaurant, open all day and they serve soup, the meat of your choice and a great coffee dessert altogether with freshly squeezed juice.
HOW TO GET TO SAN AGUSTIN
There are several common ways how to arrive in San Agustin by bus.
You can arrive from Neiva, which is the gateway to the Tatacoa Desert and the Huila Department's capital. Usually, you must transfer in Pitalito from where frequent jeeps go to San Agustin.
The bus from Neiva to San Agustin cost 30 000 COP. You can also arrive from Cali or Popayan.
From Popayan, it is a long, at some parts unpaved and uncomfortable way. The distance is only 126 km, but it takes about 5 hours!
Based on our experience, we highly recommend motion sickness pills.
There's also a direct bus to San Agustin from the capital, Bogota.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
BEST TIME TO VISIT SAN AGUSTIN
San Agustin is an all-year-round destination, but undeniably, the best time to visit it is between December and March, the dry season in Colombia.
That's being said, we were in San Agustin on the brink of August, and we had a great time except for a few short afternoon showers.
The rainy season lasts from September to November and then from April to June - but that's nothing that should put you off, just pack a few extra layers, rain jacket included.
Temperatures are quite pleasant, but not that hot like in Cartagena, so we appreciated we had a fleece jacket or at least a flannel oversized shirt that kept us warm.
Because there are plenty of things to see and do in San Agustin, wear a comfortable daypack, and make sure to bring a travel camera.
Even though the sky is often overcast, do not forget the sunscreen.
We've created an ultimate packing list for South America where you will find more tips.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
