A Guide to Haifa in Israel

 

Read our travel guide on Haifa in Israel. Includes best things to do and see, tips on where to stay, how to get, or when to go.


Haifa is a large industrial city on the Mediterranean coast with a busy port, hectic traffic situation, a maze of concrete buildings, and a not very intuitive network of roads.

In fact, it's the third-largest city in Israel after Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, so you can imagine.

It doesn't have the classic historical center, and people often see it only as a quick stop to admire the UNESCO site of Bahai Gardens.

While these unique gardens set on the slopes of Mount Carmel are definitely the main reason to visit Haifa, we believe that the city can offer more than that.

At least if you're willing to give it a chance.

Haifa reminded us a bit of Nazareth or Tiberias in terms of expectations.

While some travelers will enjoy their stay, some will leave disappointed, saying there is nothing to see and do.

Both parties have their own strong arguments to support their experience, so it's hard to predict in which category each visitor will fall into, but we hope you'll have at least a few hours to enjoy this place. 

So here's everything you should know about Haifa before you go.


How Much Time Do I Need

As Haifa offers a fairly different experience from other tourist destinations, each visit is fairly unique.

Therefore, it's hard to say how much time you need for Haifa as it all depends on your preferences.

If you're short on time and want to see only the top attractions in Haifa, then you would need about four to five hours.

When arriving from Tel Aviv or Caesarea National Park, you might take coastal Highway 2, stop at the beaches, then continue to German Colony.

From here, you can explore this neighborhood and Bahai Gardens on foot, have some delicious hummus, and enjoy the views from the Louis Promenade.

Then continue to Beit Shearim, Nazareth, or Acre afterward.

We decided to stay in Haifa overnight as it was convenient for us, so we probably spent more time there than an average visitor.

However, this fact didn't change our opinion on how much time you need for Haifa.

Unless you travel long term, we would say that a full day should be more than enough for Haifa.


What to See and Do

Even though Haifa doesn't have a typical city center or a traditional Old City, most classic tourist attractions are located in the northern part of the city.

Haifa's beaches are located in the west part of the city, and there is Mount Carmel in between those two locations.

When you ask someone what is there to see and do in Haifa, they usually tell you about the German Colony and Bahai Gardens.

A visit to Haifa offers a very different experience, and if you want to visit a city in Israel without crowds, this might be one of your best chances.


German Colony

At the foot of Mount Carmel in front of the lower part of Bahai Gardens, you can find one of the busiest areas in Haifa.

It's Haifa's beating (tourist) heart filled with restaurants, cafes, boutiques, and accommodations.

Established in the 1860s by German Templars, this exciting neighborhood also has old buildings and gets very lively every evening.

The German spirit is long gone, but it's still a must-visit place for every traveler.

Visiting the German Colony is often considered to be one of the best things to do while in Haifa, though you will need to spend some money here to get the most out of it.

Obviously, it's not required to do so, but then you might find this place a bit uninspiring, as it's basically a long boulevard with restaurants.

Whether you have a meal at the super-popular Fattoush, stay at the charming Colony Hotel, or just wander around to admire the views of Bahai Gardens, German Colony should be on your Israel itinerary.


Bahai Gardens

Bahai Gardens is a UNESCO site and one of the most interesting places you can visit while in Israel.

And for many visitors, the stunning and well-kept gardens are the main reason to visit Haifa.

Our visit to Bahai Gardens didn't go as smoothly as expected, but it wasn't a complete disaster either.

We believe it's worth reading our guide on Bahai Gardens to get the most out of your visit.

The best advice we can give on Bahai Gardens right now is that you need to book the guided tour in advance to see the gardens in their full glory.

The guided tour is free, but a reservation is essential in order to get in.

If the tours are booked up in advance, don't bother with the area that's open to the public without reservation.

Instead, walk to Louis Promenade to get the best views of the Bahai Gardens.

And what is Bahai Gardens?

Also known as the Bahai Terraces or the Hanging Gardens of Haifa, this huge garden set on the slopes of Mount Carmel is a holy place for Bahai.

This is a fairly new religion that Bahá'u'lláh established in the 19th century in Iran and some other parts of the Middle East.

Bahai Faith is very dynamic and has some progressive teachings, so the number of followers is growing.

The garden has nineteen terraces and features elements of many other famous gardens from all over the world.

It has flowers, trees, pools, fountains, and the iconic Shrine of the Bab with a gold dome that's easily recognizable in every picture.


Louis Promenade

If you want to see Bahai Gardens in its full glory or without a tour, then you need to get to Louis Promenade.

It's a nice hike from the German Colony, but nothing a relatively fit person couldn't do.

The main reason why to visit Louis Promenade is the superb views from the top.

You will have the opportunity to enjoy the views of the Bahai Gardens with the golden roof of Bab Shrine, the port, the bay, Akko, and even the white cliffs at Rosh HaNikra.

While you're there, you can also visit the Museum of Japanese Art or Haifa Zoo.

There is free public parking nearby.


Museums

Haifa is also known for museums, and if you have more than just a few hours in the city, you might want to consider visiting at least one of them.

We visited Yad Vashem Museum in Jerusalem the day before and unfortunately didn't have time to see any of the museums in Haifa.

Except for Madatech, it seemed to us from our research that most museums in Haifa are aimed at the locals more than the tourists. 

Therefore, it might be a good idea to save this activity for days with bad weather or if you have some time to kill.

Madatech - Israel National Museum of Science, Technology, and Space

Known as Madatech, the Israel National Museum of Science, Technology, and Space is by far the best museum in Haifa.

It's also one of the best places to visit in the city for families with kids. If you have time only for one museum, then you should explore this one.

Haifa City Museum

Then you can also visit Haifa City Museum, set in a Templar building in German Colony that will allow you to get to know better the local life and history. 

Haifa Museum of Art

Home to contemporary art boasting one of the best collections in Israel, this museum is a great place to visit if you're already tired of ancient history.

The museum has paintings, sculptures, photos, drawings, and videos. It is located halfway between Bahai Gardens and Paris Square, so it's easy to get there on foot.

Clandestine Immigration and Naval Museum

Situated near the Cave of Elijah, this small museum has a couple of ships and a submarine. It covers the history of Jewish immigration and the Israeli Navy.

National Maritime Museum

While you're in this area, you can consider visiting National Maritime Museum, which is right next to the Clandestine Immigration and Naval Museum.

If maritime history, boat models, pirates, and archaeology are your thing, this little museum should be on your list.

Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art

For all the Japanese art fans, this tiny museum near the top of the Bahai Gardens might interest you.

Obviously, if you want to get the most out of the local museums, you will probably need to stay in Haifa overnight.


Stella Maris Monastery

While Haifa doesn't have similar religious significance as some other places in Israel, there are still a few places of importance to visit.

Run by the Carmelite Order, Stella Maris Monastery at the top of Mount Carmel is one of the best places in this regard you can visit while in Haifa.

The order was founded in the 12th century on Mount Carmel by hermits who used to live in the caves following the prophet Elijah and prayed to God there.

The church is not very big but has a nicely decorated ceiling, a Cave of Elijah, and offers impressive views of Haifa and its surroundings.

Even if you're not interested in the religious part of this place, you might still want to take the cable car from the seafront promenade to enjoy the views from the top.

Alternatively, you can get there by bus or on foot.

As usual, dress modestly.


Cave of Elijah

If you're a pilgrim or religious person looking for holy places in Haifa, the Cave of Elijah should not escape your attention.

But wait. Haven't we just talked about the Cave of Elijah in the text above? Nice catch.

So, yes, there are two Caves of Elijah in Haifa.

It reminded us a bit of a similar situation with the tomb of Jesus, which is located in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but there is also an alternative location in Garden Tomb in Jerusalem. 

And what is Cave of Elijah?

It's a holy place for four religions - Jews, Christians, Muslims, and Druze, where the prophet Elijah supposedly stayed and prayed. 

You can actually hike from National Maritime Museum on Allenby Road to Stella Maris and see this cave along the way if you want to stay active and stretch your legs.

The cave is a tiny and modest place, and unless you're specifically looking for holy places, then there is not much to see and do. 

Remember to wear something modest.

Unfortunately, the cave was closed on the day of our visit, and we couldn't get in.


Beaches

Haifa is probably not your typical beach destination in Israel, but it doesn't change the fact that there are several nice city beaches.

The biggest issue with beaches in Haifa for tourists staying near the German Colony is that they are located in the south(west) part of the city.

The popular Dado Beach is about seven kilometers from Haifa's central area, which means that it is not easily accessible on foot.

Therefore, you need to figure out how to get there.

Fortunately, you can take a train or bus from Haifa Center - HaShmona Station directly to the Carmel Beach Station.

Obviously, you can drive there, but it might be challenging to find a parking space on busy days (especially weekends).

Taxis are usually more expensive in Israel, but it shouldn't be that bad if you travel in a group.

The south beaches in Haifa are often considered to be the best ones, and most people prefer to go there.

Haifa's coastal area also features Carmel Beach, Zamir Beach, and Student Beach. You will also find Altit Beach or HaBonim Beach outside the city farther down south.

If you don't want to drive anywhere, the nearest two beaches to the German Colony are Bat Galim Beach and Quiet Beach.

Alternatively, you might also consider visiting the northern beaches in Kiryat Haim. This is a north neighborhood in Haifa, halfway between the city and Akko.

Some beaches have changing rooms, showers, or a lifeguard (usually only in the summer season).

The local beaches are great for swimming, walking, sunbathing, surfing or kitesurfing.

The best part about Haifa's beaches is that they are free, which is very convenient if you travel around Israel on a budget.


How to Get There

Haifa is the third-largest city in Israel, located on the Mediterranean Sea coast about 90 kilometers north of Tel Aviv.

It's very easy and straightforward to get there regardless of whether you have your own transport or not.

The advantage of large cities is that they're well connected with the rest of the country so you can use public transport if you want to.

Car

Getting to Haifa by car couldn't be easier. We rented the car in Jerusalem and drove to Haifa from there.

Jerusalem is 160 kilometers south of Haifa, and it should take you two hours to get there.

We stopped at Caesarea National Park and Beit Shearim National Park before arriving in Haifa, so the journey took us a bit longer.

Be prepared that Highway 6 has an electronic toll, so it's not free.

Therefore, you might want to consider taking Highway 2 when driving from Tel Aviv to Haifa or vice versa instead.

Still, Highway 2 can be really busy, so you might want to check your GPS navigation first to see which option is faster.

Be prepared for heavy traffic during the rush hours, and don't forget to read our guide on driving in Israel.

Carmel Tunnels

As we've talked above about tolls, we can't fail to mention Carmel Tunnels, one of the few toll roads in Israel.

We've already noted in this blog post that the traffic situation in Haifa is far from perfect.

Unfortunately, it's not just Haifa, but plenty of other Israel cities face similar problems.

But Haifa has Carmel Tunnels, a unique solution to deal with traffic jams in the city center. Unfortunately (but obviously), it is more aimed at the locals than tourists.

Still, if you want to get quickly from the west part of the city to the east or vice versa, you might want to consider taking Highway 23, also known as Carmel Tunnels.

For example, at the time of the writing this article, the navigation showed me that it takes less than 10 minutes to get from Dado Beach to HaMifrats Central Station via the tunnels.

Taking the same route via Highway 4 that goes around the entire Haifa would take me over 35 minutes (in reality, probably even more).

If you're a tourist, the easiest way to pay for the Carmel Tunnels is by cash at the toll booth. Not all lanes have toll booths, so make sure to stay in the correct one.

Train

One of the best and easiest ways to get to Haifa is by train.

Trains in Israel are fairly cheap, comfortable, and reliable and allow you to see many beautiful places in the country without the need to rent a car.

In case you're staying near the train station, they're often the fastest way to get around Israel (at least around some parts of it).

Haifa has four main train stations.

Hof HaKarmel near the beaches in the west, Haifa Bat Galim close to Cave of Elijah, Haifa Center HaShmona near the German Colony, and HaMifrats Central Station in the east.

Direct trains frequently run between Haifa and Tel Aviv, usually two or three times every hour.

If you're going to Haifa directly from Jerusalem or Ben Gurion Airport, then you need to change trains in Tel Aviv.

Bus

Alternatively, you can get to Haifa by bus. However, we would probably take the train instead, especially if you travel along the coast.

For example, Bus 910 Egged goes from Tel Aviv to Haifa HaKarmel Station fairly frequently. While it's not a bad option, we believe it's better to take the train.

Of course, some destinations from Haifa, such as Nazareth, can be reached only by bus (331 and 332) and not train.

Tours

Most of the Haifa tours on their itinerary also include Caesarea, Akko, or even Rosh HaNikra.

It's one of the best ways to explore the Mediterranean Coast but be prepared that you will see only Bahai Gardens with a guide most of the time.

One of the best examples is this popular Haifa, Caesarea and Akko Tour from Tel Aviv.

Always read the tour description carefully, as some tours that have Bahai Gardens on their itinerary don't go inside.


How to Get Around

Getting around Haifa is easy as the city has a good public transport network. You can take a bus, train, cable car, or even one of the shortest subways in the world while in Haifa.

Carmelit, the underground funicular, is not only a good way to get from Paris Square to Gan Ha'Em Carmel Center (Carmel Mountain in only eight minutes, but also a proper tourist attraction).

We usually prefer walking whenever possible, so we explored the port area on foot.

Alternatively, you can always get a taxi if you don't want to use public transport.

By the way, one of the most important things you should know about Israel is that public transport doesn't run on Shabbat.

Haifa has many winding and steep streets, so leaving your car behind this time is better.


Where to Stay

Haifa is a fairly large city, and it might be a bit confusing to decide on the location of your hotel.

We decided to stay near the Bahai Gardens and German Colony so we could explore this part of the city easily on foot.

This location is perfect if you don't want to use public transport to get around the city.

While you're in the area, you have two more additional options. Either stay in the lower city or at Carmel Mountain to enjoy the views.

Of course, you can stay close to beaches if that's why you arrived in Haifa in the first place.

If you have a car, we recommend booking a hotel with private parking when looking for accommodation in central Haifa.

Here, we've selected the best hotels in Haifa.

Budget | Haifa Hostel - It's not easy to find cheap accommodation in Haifa. However, Haifa Hostel offers good value for money, an excellent central location in the German Colony, a rooftop terrace, and clean rooms.

Mid-range | The Colony Hotel - One of the best hotels in Haifa is located in the German Colony. You will find here a quiet garden, rooftop terrace, lovely rooms, and original features of a 100-year-old property.

Luxury | Dan Carmel Haifa - Traditional luxury hotel offers spacious rooms with amazing views, an outdoor swimming pool, and a hard-to-beat location near the Louis Promenade.


When to Go

Haifa is a large city and can be visited all year round. Still, we believe that the best time to visit Haifa is in the spring or autumn.

The hottest months are July and August, and the situation here will be more bearable than near the Dead Sea or the Negev Desert

We would say that summer is not the best time to visit Israel in general, but that's only our opinion.

The weather in Haifa in winter can be unpredictable but be prepared that some days can be rainy and cloudy.


Staying Safe

In general, Haifa is very safe to visit. In fact, we felt that the western part of North Israel was even safer than the rest of the country.

Bahai Gardens, the German Colony, or the beaches are safe to visit.

Moreover, we wandered through Haifa's streets in some unfamiliar neighborhoods even after dark and never felt uncomfortable.

While the security situation might seem calm, it's still far from idyllic, and it's better to know some basic rules to stay safe in Israel.


Travel Insurance

We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.

Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.

World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.

SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.

Travel smarter and safer!


Is Haifa Worth Visiting?

Due to its dramatic scenery, industrial nature, and UNESCO site, Haifa is a definitely interesting place to visit.

Whether the city is worth your time is a completely different question.

At the beginning of this blog post, we described Haifa as a hectic city that is not exactly as tourist-friendly as other towns and cities around Israel.

It doesn't feature the typical tourist attractions.

Therefore, you won't find here exactly places such as the Dome of the RockWestern Wall, or Mount of Olives as you would in Jerusalem.

On the other hand, the lack of a historical core might be a good thing for some travelers.

Not every city has to be a classic tourist destination such as Akko or Safed

If you come here with an open mind, Haifa will allow you to take a bit more intimate look into the daily life of locals and a typical Israeli city.


Travel Resources

Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.

Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.

Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.

We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.

Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.

Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.

Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.


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