How We Spent a Day Skiing in 4 Vallees, Switzerland
Skiing in the famous 4 Vallees was an experience we'll never forget.
4 Vallees, Switzerland, is a top ski destination that you won't want to miss!
4 Vallees is so popular for a reason – it boasts 410 kilometers of slopes, making it the biggest ski resort in Switzerland. I read a newspaper article claiming the number might be stretched a bit, but it definitely felt like one of the largest we've hit in Europe. It makes sense, though, since the name literally means four valleys and the resort spans all of them.
Right from the start, we knew our ski trip to Switzerland would give us just one day in 4 Vallees. We put a lot of thought into planning to make the most of it despite the time crunch. Hopefully, this guide helps you out, too.
I skied in Veysonnaz about 20 years ago, and I have to say, my memories are a bit blurry after all those years. The one thing that stood out was the creaky double chairlift on Greppon Blanc. It's still there, by the way. I'll get into more detail later. I was really curious to see how my experience would be after such a long time and if I'd recognize any of the places I saw before.
It wasn't just the skiing in 4 Vallees that we loved; the scenery was absolutely breathtaking, too.
What Is the Price of the 4 Vallees Lift Tickets?
The night before our trip, we checked the 4 Vallees website to see the lift ticket options. We found four choices for day passes: 4 Vallees (the whole resort), Verbier, La Tzoumaz, and Bruson. Since we were starting at Les Mayens de l'Ours, we needed to buy the 4 Vallees lift ticket for 98 CHF, which gave us access to all lifts in this massive resort. The Verbier ticket was slightly cheaper, but we ruled it out immediately since it only covers Verbier. Same with La Tzoumaz and Bruson, which are smaller areas we couldn't explore in a single day.
With the 4 Vallees lift ticket, we could ski all of 410 kilometers, including the area around Plan-du-Fou, which you can see in this photo.
They offer everything from multiday to annual lift passes, just so you know. Keep in mind, though, that 4 Vallees uses dynamic pricing, so ticket prices vary based on demand. The golden rule? Book ahead if you want to save some money. We hit the slopes in 4 Vallees right after New Year's Eve, and the tickets were pricey (Christmas time is always expensive). Peak season is January to February (school holidays), so expect even higher prices then. 4 Vallees is open from November to April, so if you want to save some cash, go skiing closer to these dates when it's less busy.
It turns out we could reuse these ski passes cards and add a ticket for Aletsch Arena. The catch was a 5 CHF deposit for the physical card, which they wouldn't refund at Aletsch Arena for some unknown reason. So, we ended up with two cards worth 10 CHF and no way to return them. A solid idea, but with an obvious downside.
Getting to 4 Vallees
4 Vallees is easy to reach from the Rhone Valley, but you need to know where you want to start your ski trip or base yourself if you're staying longer. Looks like the main spots to get into the resort are Les Masses, Les Collons, Thyon 2000, Mayens de l'Ours, Veysonnaz, Siviez, Nendaz, La Tzoumaz, Verbier, and Le Chable (Bruson). You can get to all of them by car and bus (or taxi), but only Le Chable is accessible by train. Since we brought our car for this trip, we'll start there – compare rental car prices here.
Driving to 4 Vallees
We kicked off our day in Brig, about 70 kilometers from Mayens de l'Ours, which we picked as our starting point. Keep in mind, Sion and Martigny are at around 500 meters above sea level, while resort villages like Veysonnaz, Nendaz, or Verbier sit between 1400-1500 meters asl (with Thyon over 2000 meters). The climb was gradual, with lots of twists and turns, but we drove to L'Ours in good weather, so all was well.
Just a few days earlier, there was a big snowstorm, and snow chains were needed to reach some areas in the resort. They usually clear the snow in a few hours, so it might be better to wait it out than drive through a storm.
Here's something interesting: Veysonnaz and Verbier are less than 15 kilometers apart by a straight line, but they are nearly 70 kilometers away by car. Verbier is around 2 hours from Bern, 3 hours from Zurich, 2 hours from Geneva, and just 75 minutes from Lausanne. Despite the distance, driving times to Veysonnaz and Verbier are the same. So, Veysonnaz is also 3 hours from Zurich, 2 hours from Geneva, and so on.
We drove from Sion to Veysonnaz and continued to de l'Ours parking.
Taking a Train to 4 Vallees
Switzerland has a fantastic rail network, but getting to 4 Vallées by train requires a bit of planning. If you're skiing in Verbier, you can take a train from Zurich, Geneva, Lausanne, or Bern to Martigny and then transfer to a train for Le Chable. Once you arrive, you can hop on a cable car (and start skiing) or take a free shuttle bus to your hotel. Another way is to take a train to Sion and then a yellow Car Postal bus to Veysonnaz, Thyon, Nendaz, or Siviez.
Parking at 4 Vallees
Every village at 4 Vallées has parking lots, but most of them come with a fee. We aimed to start our day in the Veysonnaz area, so after a quick search, we parked near the de l'Ours piste. The renowned Piste de l'Ours (FIS slope) has a gondola and a free parking lot. That's it. Besides a small bar, there's nothing else there since the base station is outside any nearby villages.
I was a bit worried about the parking situation since we were there the morning after New Year's Eve, but we arrived around 8:20 AM, and the lot was almost empty (though it filled up by day's end). On our way to de l'Ours, we passed through Veysonnaz, which has the Telecabine and Magrappe parking lots and the Grangettes garage (right next to the cable car) as a backup plan if de l'Ours was full. We also saw a packed parking lot in Siviez (600 spaces), so parking at de l'Ours seemed like a good call.
Siviez is an awesome starting spot because you can easily visit Mont Fort or ski to Veysonnaz from here.
Just a heads-up, overnight parking is only allowed in specific areas. At de l'Ours, parking is only open during the day. Telecabine parking allows up to 48 hours, and Magrappe offers a long-term option for up to 14 days. Other areas in the resort have similar parking rules.
When it comes to parking in Verbier, Curala Parking (Le Chable) is your best bet for day skiers. It's a big lot with almost 800 spaces and is free from 6 AM to 12 AM. Another option is Perin Parking, but it's about 1.5 kilometers from the Verbier cable car (a bit closer to the Savoleyres cable car). If you're parking at La Tzoumaz, l'Eterpey offers a free lot close to the cable car.
How Was Our Skiing Experience in 4 Vallees?
The evening before, we planned two skiing routes for 4 Vallées. One was a straightforward route through Tortin, Col des Gentianes, and Mont-Fort. The other was more ambitious, with a return trip through Le Chaux, Attelas, and Chassoure. We left the decision for when we reached Mont Fort's summit. I had my doubts, though, or rather, I was being realistic. The second route seemed awesome but a bit too long.
Our big goal for the day was reaching Mont Fort since it's the ultimate highlight of any 4 Vallees ski trip.
I was worried about missing the connections back to Veysonnaz. We had delays in the previous days, like in Crans-Montana, where we waited about 30 minutes to get on the gondola due to technical issues and a big crowd.
I had been checking the 4 Vallées Piste live map regularly, and just a couple of days before our visit, the Veysonnaz gondola broke down. There was a big mechanical problem, but luckily, everyone was fine. However, skiers were stranded for a while and had to be rescued by helicopter. Things like this can happen, but given our plan, it didn't ease our minds. Luckily, the only hiccup we had was a 10-minute wait on the platter lift to Greppon Blanc and a 20-minute line for the gondola in Siviez.
We left Brig early in the morning and drove through the Rhone Valley to Sion, catching a pastel-colored sunrise along the way. From Sion, we turned onto Rte de Nendaz and climbed up to l'Ours parking. The road was good, with two lanes and no snow. The parking lot was almost empty when we got there, which was a relief. Before heading to the cable car, we picked up our ski passes from the machine next to the ticket kiosk (we bought them the night before). As soon as they opened the cable car to Thyon, we hopped on board.
Right off the bat, the Swiss Alps' scenery was absolutely amazing.
We took the cable car to Thyon 2000 (2100m) and then a platter lift to Etherolla (2450m). We were there bright and early—the Tsa slope was still closed. A small group of skiers was already behind the rope, chatting with the maintenance guy (who was talking with someone on the radio). It didn't take long for him to open the catwalk. Meanwhile, the group got bigger, so we decided to wait a bit to avoid the crowded, narrow run.
We had to wait briefly at Etherolla because the catwalk to Tsa was still closed upon our arrival.
First, we took the Tsa t-bar, then the Les Chottes t-bar. It was a beautiful morning but pretty chilly on the north-facing slopes. We moved slowly toward the Greppon Blanc 2 t-bar, which finally got us to Combatseline (2238). From there, we finally skied down to Siviez (1730m).
On our way to Mont Fort, we passed through Siviez, which connects to Veysonnaz and Verbier.
We hit a huge line and had to wait more than twenty minutes to get on the 4-seater lift to Tortin. The lift operator tried his best, organizing skiers into groups of four to maximize capacity, but it still took forever to finally get on the lift.
We eventually arrived at Tortin (2045m), the base station for the tramway to Col des Gentianes (2894m). From there, we took the Mont Fort cable car all the way up to the summit of Mont Fort at 3330 meters—the highest peak in the 4 Vallees. The journey from Siviez to Mont Fort took more than an hour, but it was definitely worth it.
At 3330 meters, Mont Fort's summit provided stunning views!
After getting off the cable car, a short climb via a flight of metal stairs brought us to the viewing platform. We'd already seen some incredible scenery, but the views from Mont Fort were absolutely breathtaking. We were surrounded by the Matterhorn - check out our post on skiing in Zermatt - the Dent d'Herens, the Grand Combin, Mont Blanc, and countless other peaks.
We could see the 4,309-meter-high Grand Combin from Mont Fort.
When I first went to Veysonnaz, I also did a side trip to Aiguille du Midi in Chamonix to check out Mont Blanc. I asked Lucie if she wanted to go, but she preferred to focus on skiing given our limited time, which made sense since we could see Mont Blanc from almost every ski resort we've been to (the only spot we couldn't see was during our ski trip to Saas-Fee). Still, Aiguille du Midi gets you so close to Mont Blanc that it feels like you can almost touch it - it's a great day trip if you need some inspiration.
From Mont Fort, we also had a view of Mont Blanc, Europe's highest peak.
Even though it was sunny, it was still freezing up there because of the wind. We slowly headed back to the cable car and took it back to Col des Gentianes (we missed one by a second, so we enjoyed more views while waiting for another).
There was an option to ski down the ungroomed black piste, but since it's one of the steepest slopes in 4 Vallees (and the Swiss Alps) and full of huge moguls (and plenty of tumbles), we passed. The main reason? It was our fifth day on the slopes in seven days, and our legs were running on fumes, even with some recovery time in Brigerbad. We didn't have much energy left. I wouldn't enjoy it, and Lucie even less.
The ungroomed black pistes near Mont Fort and Col des Gentianes offer the perfect challenge for expert skiers.
When we got back to Col des Gentianes, we had to make the toughest decision of the day. It was already past noon, and we still had a long way to go. It took us almost four hours to get here, and the journey back was just as long. After a quick discussion, we decided to head back the same way we came and opted for the cable car. The section between Col des Gentianes and Tortin was an ungroomed black piste with huge moguls, so we chose the safer option and enjoyed the scenery on the way. All in all, it was a good plan, even though we did fewer runs that day—we didn't mind.
At Tortin, we finally ate our lunch (homemade sandwiches and bananas I'd been carrying since morning) and then skied back down to Siviez. We took a lift to Combatseline, and since Lucie loved this slope, we did two extra runs before heading back to Thyon via Greppon Blanc.
Combatseline quickly became one of our favorite slopes in 4 Vallees.
We finally got to relax and focus on skiing again. Now that I'm older and wiser, I couldn't bring myself to use that old double chairlift to Greppon Blanc. They added some extra cushioning, making it look a bit more comfortable (and safer in case of a fall, right?).
Even after 20 years since my last visit to 4 Vallees, the double chairlift on Greppon Blanc was still there.
Jokes aside, the area between Veysonnaz and Siviez has more t-bars and platter lifts than any other resort we've visited in the Swiss Alps, and this old two-seater just highlights how much it needs modernization. It's a shame that the area connecting Veysonnaz with Siviez (and Mont Fort) is so outdated because some of the slopes here are pretty fun.
When we reached Thyon 2000, we skied down the Les Mayens piste (to Veysonnaz) and even had some extra time to explore the slopes of Thyon. It was getting late, so we decided to make our last run. Our final descent on l'Ours piste was the perfect end to the day. Even though the snow conditions weren't great, skiing down the slope famous for its steep sections and plenty of twists and turns was quite thrilling.
To wrap up our day in 4 Vallees, we skied down the iconic piste de l'Ours.
Back in the parking lot, we loaded our skis into the car, drove back to Sion (this time, we took a much narrower road), and then headed to Brig. The weather the next day wasn't supposed to be great, so we decided to revisit Brigerbad and save our trip to Aletsch Arena for our final day in Switzerland.
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How Many Days Should I Plan for a Skiing Trip to the 4 Vallees?
We had just one day in 4 Vallees, and while it was a good intro, it wasn't perfect. We packed a lot into our day, but two or three days would've been way better. We started early and finished late to make the most of it, but if you like to take things slow, you'll need at least an extra day.
If we had more time, we would've spent a full day in Veysonnaz - Thyon, then moved on to Siviez or Verbier for the next day with plenty of options and flexibility, and wrapped up in Verbier on the last day. Three days in 4 Vallees sounds just right for exploring it all.
You could easily spend a whole week there without getting bored, but we wouldn't commit to just one place. The resort is pretty huge, not like the compact Crans Montana or Aletsch. So, maybe spend two to three days in Veysonnaz and two to three days in Verbier (including one or two rest days). That's our tip for skiers.
You've got to take the cable car from Col des Gentianes to Mont Fort when you're skiing in 4 Vallées.
Where to Stay in 4 Vallees
Picking the right hotel is always key, but in 4 Vallées, choosing the right location is even more crucial. We already talked about this, but if you're staying in 4 Vallees for several days, we'd recommend picking at least two different villages. Staying in Verbier and then moving to Veysonnaz (or vice versa) is the obvious choice, but you can also go for some smaller villages around these two.
If you love skiing, Veysonnaz, Siviez, and Verbier are great options. Veysonnaz has that amazing FIS slope, while Siviez and Verbier offer fantastic off-piste skiing. For a family-friendly area, Thyon is a great pick. Verbier is also the main choice for nightlife, shopping, and great food. Just remember, this is a premier destination, so everything is super expensive here.
If you don't mind driving or taking a bus/train each morning to get to 4 Vallees, you can stay almost anywhere. Sion and Martigny are great starting points since they're close to Verbier and Veysonnaz. The Visp/Brig area where we stayed was fine for a day trip but probably too far for a multiday skiing adventure.
Even though there's a ton of accommodation in 4 Vallees, many are apartments with few reviews, no availability, and odd names - so picking the right one can be challenging, especially for first-timers. To give you some idea, we selected traditional hotels and well-established guest houses in 4 Vallees.
Many top hotels in 4 Vallees provide ski-in, ski-out access.
Hotels in Verbier
Verbier is one of the most luxurious and expensive resorts in the Swiss Alps, so it's only fitting that W Verbier is our top pick. W hotels usually offer amazing service, comfort, and location, and although we didn't stay at this one, it should be no different. If you're looking for a more affordable option in Verbier, Hotel Montpelier is a great choice—good location, cozy rooms, and wellness facilities at (relatively) affordable prices.
Hotels in La Tzoumaz
Accommodation in 4 Vallees isn't cheap, but you can find budget-friendly places. La Tzoum'hostel is a great example—it has a hot tub and a shared kitchen and is just steps from the La Tzoumaz cable car. If Verbier feels too flashy and crowded, staying in La Tzoumaz is a great alternative, but note it's a bit harder to ski to other parts of the resort from there.
Hotels in Veysonnaz
Veysonnaz is a charming village and a fantastic starting point for exploring 4 Vallees. The alpine-styled Hotel Chalet Royal has spacious rooms, amazing views, and a buffet breakfast. It's right across from the Veysonnaz cable car station. Paid parking is available in a large underground garage under the hotel. Next door is Hotel Magrappe, offering a similar experience and a nice restaurant (breakfasts are served here in the offseason if you're staying at Hotel Chalet).
Lodging in 4 Vallees tends to be quite pricey.
Hotels in Nendaz
Nendaz is another lovely village in the mountains, roughly in the middle of the ski resort. MAD Mount Hotel & Spa, right next to the cable car, offers cozy rooms, spa facilities, and good food. Another popular choice is Nendaz 4 Vallees & SPA, boasting a wellness area, beautiful rooms, and a restaurant serving Swiss cuisine. Our tip: get a room with a view, as some rooms face a wall!
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
