A Complete Guide to Borgarfjordur Eystri in Iceland
Borgarfjordur Eystri (Borgarfjörður) is one of the best places to see puffins in Iceland in the summer. Visit with us Borgarfjordur, a small village famous for wonderful scenery and nesting Atlantic Puffins. Our travel guide includes tips on photographing puffins, how to visit Borgarfjordur fjord, how to get there, and where to stay.
The Atlantic Puffin is not a rare species, but it's still one of the most stunning and beautiful birds in the world.
Thanks to its coloring - white head, black back and wings, white belly - and especially wonderfully colored flat-sided beak, this bird is very attractive for all enthusiastic birdwatchers, photographers, and also regular travelers who enjoy nature in its very best.
So when planning your trip and creating your perfect Iceland itinerary, you must solve a dilemma.
Travel in the summer season and see puffins, or arrive a bit later, in the autumn or winter, and spot the Northern Lights.
Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to see both phenomena at the same time because puffins' bill loses its trademark orange color outside the nesting season, but more about it later.
We have opted for visiting Iceland in the summer, therefore, for birdwatching.
We could not be happier with our choice, as watching puffins in their natural habitat was one of our favorite activities in the Land of Ice and Fire.
The main reason probably was that Iceland is so scenic that all puffin colonies were located at beautiful spots.
If you want more information on visiting Borgarfjordur and seeing puffins, you've come to the right place.
In this travel guide, we share with you tips on how to get to Borgarfjordur Eystri, when is the best time to see puffins, where to stay, and what to expect from birdwatching in Hafnarholmi Marina.
Borgarfjordur Eystri
Even though Borgarfjordur Eystri in East Fjords is quite a remote spot and a detour off the well-traveled Ring Road, it is one of the best places to see puffins in Iceland.
And in our opinion, Borgarfjordur Eystri is definitely worth the trip.
Carefully designated boardwalks in Hafnarholmi Marina (often nicknamed Puffin Marina) and the location are perfect for birdwatching.
Therefore, your chances of seeing puffins here are very high because birds have everything they like - grassy areas and slopes above cliffs very close to the water.
During the nesting season, Borgarfjordur is home to about 10 000 pairs of puffins.
This is quite an impressive number, which makes the village one of the most accessible and safest spots to see puffins in Iceland.
To document how amazing puffins in Borgarfjordur are, we must admit that after visiting the village and taking hundreds of photos, we realized that the number of memory cards we have is probably not enough for the two-week trip.
So, later on, we had to buy an extra memory card for a camera in Akureyri.
One of the things to know about Iceland is that it's a very expensive country - see our Iceland Travel Budget.
The card costs three times more than we are used to paying in the Czech Republic, so we recommend you one thing.
If you think you have enough memory cards for your trip, take a few extra because Iceland is absolutely wonderful, especially during the puffin season.
How to Get to Borgarfjordur
There is one thing you should know. Similar to the road to Seydisfjordur, the route to Borgarfjordur is so scenic that we recommend you drive it even outside the birdwatching season.
The area is famous for hiking and surrounded by a great deal of myth.
Therefore, you do not need to be worried that there is nothing to do at Borgarfjordur except watch puffins.
Still, the puffins are for sure the highlight of this area.
So, how do you get to Borgarfjordur?
Car or Campervan
The best way to get to get to Borgarfjordur Eystri is by car as it allows you to stop as often as you want.
From Egilsstadir, you need to follow road number 94 that will take you to Borgarfjordur Eystri, and it ends right in the marina, which is the best spot for seeing puffins.
You do not need 4WD in the summer season, our 2WD campervan was absolutely enough, but it is a different story while traveling in the winter.
When the conditions are icy and snowy, it is essential to have 4WD and snow chains in the car trunk.
Here you can search for the best deals on rental cars in Iceland or read our guide on how to choose the best campervan for Iceland.
Directions
The big part of the road is unpaved but without holes, and there is ongoing construction to improve road conditions.
The first part of the drive is a flat, mostly unpaved road, and you have the views on the right-hand side; this is where the mountains and plains with horses are.
The road gets more exciting once the path turns right and you start climbing to the mountain pass.
The road is winding, and if the weather is clear, amazing views start to open up.
Once you reach the pass, there is a new viewing platform where you can take a break. From this point, you must descend everything you've just ascended.
The road is sneaking around the snow-capped mountains, and you will very soon see the sea views.
Drive slowly and carefully as there are no barriers along the way.
Once you reach the coastline, it is only a short drive to Borgarfjordur Eystri. If you plan on seeing the puffins straightaway, you need to drive past the village until you reach the very end of the road.
Parking
There is a free parking at Borgarfjordur Eystri right next to the harbor where you can leave your car and walk a few hundred meters to the nesting site.
On Google Maps, you can find the birdwatching spot under several names, such as Hafnarholmi Marina or Borgarfjardarhofn.
The harbor is very photogenic, so snap a few photos before you excitedly run to see the puffins.
Public Transport
During the nesting season, between April and August, there should be at least one bus per day connecting Egilsstadir and Borgarfjordur Eystri if you do not have your own transport.
We saw the poster advertising this bus route in the campground we stayed in, but it is better to ask to know the exact departure times.
Atlantic Puffins Facts
Puffins are cute birds that are pretty small, usually around 29 cm high, they weigh up to 500 grams, and their wingspan can be up to 65 centimeters.
These birds can be found in North Atlantic, and you can watch them not only in Iceland but also in Greenland, Faroe Island, or Norway, just to name a few locations.
The total population is around 14 million, and the largest colony lives on Iceland's Westman Island.
We knew that Puffins go hunting to the sea, but they're also exceptional divers, something we would not have guessed.
We could see it later more closely when we took a whale watching tour in Husavik, during which a flock of puffins followed us for a while and dived frequently.
When the breeding season comes, puffins seek places such as Borgarfjordur, where they find protection on the cliffs covered with grass above the sea.
The female usually lays a single egg and keeps it warm (together with a male partner) for the next 42 days.
It is pretty interesting that the distinctive orange bill appears only during the nesting season, and later in the year, the color fades to dull shades.
When is the Best Time to See Puffins at Borgarfjordur
So when should you arrive in Borgarfjordur to see puffins?
The nesting season of puffins in Iceland lasts from mid-April to mid-August, so to increase your chances to see those wonderful birds, plan your visit between May and the beginning of August.
There are several places in Iceland to see puffins, we saw three of them, including Dyrholaey Peninsula and Latrabjarg, but Borgarfjordur, specifically Hafnarholmi Marina, was undoubtedly the best.
So we already know the best season to see puffins, but what is the best time of the day to watch puffins at Borgarfjordur Eystri?
It is either in the morning between 7 AM and 10 AM and then in the afternoon, between 6 PM and 10 PM.
It does not mean you won't see a single bird when you arrive outside these time frames.
But the truth is puffins spend most of the time during the day hunting out on the sea, and those birds who protect their eggs are usually hidden in the nest.
We arrived in Borgarfjordur after 9 PM, and the timing possibly could not be better because of the number of birds and the soft light.
How to See Puffins at Borgarfjordur
We parked the car at the designate area and followed the path to the nesting site.
It is good to know that the Borgarfjordur puffin site is quite small, so be respectful to other visitors and puffins, of course.
Trail
A flight of wooden stairs led us uphill, and already here, we could see the first puffins sitting in the grass in front of their burrows.
It was much better than we had expected.
The designated boardwalks lead through the puffins' colony, yet they are still far enough to avoid disturbance and not to destroy vegetation.
The location of this nesting site is absolutely fabulous.
Puffins' Colony
On one side, there are puffins which from time to time fly out to the sea and then return with fish in their beaks.
On the other side is the harbor, and when you continue straight, you'll get to a viewing platform with another view of a cliff and hundreds of birds flying around.
Prepare yourself for a specific bird smell and the funny noises puffins make.
How Much Time Do You Need
As we've already mentioned, the site is quite small, but there were so many puffins that we spent there approximately two hours.
We know that many travelers leave after twenty or thirty minutes, so plan your visit according to your travel style.
Observation Shack
Borgarfjordur puffin nesting site can get pretty windy, and the conditions can be quite harsh when it rains.
So it is good to know there is a wooden observation shack for photographers (you can sit here quietly and open windows for better photos) where you can hide for a while.
Photo Tips
This is one of those places where having a proper telephoto lens will make a big difference.
Due to the boardwalk, capturing puffins is very easy as you will get as close to them as possible.
However, having a proper telephoto lens will help you keep the safest possible distance between you and them.
You can also consider using a camera such as Canon EOS R6 with a bird-eye autofocus function to capture the best images possible.
While plenty of puffins will be super close, you might still consider bringing binoculars to observe their hunting habits, if you're not a photo enthusiast.
Rules
It should go without saying that it is forbidden to touch the birds or feed them.
One of Iceland's existing law even protects birds during the breeding season, because they were in the past hunted for eggs and meat.
Our Experience
Would you like to know what we did do at Borgarfjordur for two hours?
Well, the weather was pleasant, so watching the birds was quite entertaining, and the time just flew by.
From time to time, we retraced our steps to find a new group of puffins and observed their hunting and nesting habits.
We also made tea at the parking lot to fill up a water bottle to enjoy a hot beverage while staying warm and enjoying the wonderful summer evening in Iceland.
Moreover, the midnight sun on the way back made for spectacular views of the whole fjord.
Also, make sure you wear something warm such as a down jacket (that's what we wore that day).
For more tips, head to this article: Iceland Summer Packing List.
Travel Insurance
We never leave home without travel insurance that was designed to cover our expenses if something goes wrong during the trip.
Travel insurance protects against theft, flight delays, injury, illness, cancellations, and much more.
World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers to cover their trip essentials, including sports and adventure activities.
SafetyWing is affordable travel insurance for backpackers, long-term travelers, and digital nomads.
Travel smarter and safer!
Entrance Fee
There is no entrance fee to Borgarfjordur Eystri.
Even though seeing puffins in Borgarfjordur is completely free, you can donate some money if you want to support this site.
It is for sure highly appreciated.
Where to Stay at Borgarfjordur Eystri
Borgarfjordur Eystri is a small lovely village with not that many accommodation options.
As the best time to see the puffins is either early in the morning or later in the evening, chances are you need to stay in Borgarfjordur overnight.
However, it is still possible to drive from or to Egilsstadir in case there is no hotel available.
We recommend you make a reservation well in advance because the puffin season coincides with the high season in Iceland.
Here's the list of the best hotel options in Borgarfjordur Eystri for all types of travelers.
Mid-range | Blabjorg Guesthouse - Wonderful, newly refurbished guesthouse offers equipped kitchen, and there are even a sauna and hot tub. Some rooms have a sea view - go for it if it is still available.
Egilsstadir | Hotel Valaskjalf - Egilsstadir can easily be your base for visiting some of the stunning places in Iceland and starting off point for exploring East Fjords or the Northern part of the country. This hotel is modernly decorated, and the location could not be better.
Camping
If you travel in a campervan as we did, the cheapest place to stay in Borgarfjordur is the campsite.
It is right in the middle of the village, only a couple of kilometers from the nesting place, and it has everything you need — a shared kitchen, toilets, and showers.
The price for Borgarfjordur Campground is 1200 ISK per person, plus 400 ISK per hot shower.
You need 4 x 100 ISK in coins to take a shower, but a lady at the front desk offered us change automatically.
Here you can find more information on camping in Iceland.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
